The 3 Hour Hammock Stand

20170528_134349

I’ve always wanted a hammock stand, and the prices for such things are a bit over the top. This build took me 3 hours from first cut to cleanup (I’m comfortable with my tools, though nowhere near as good as my father, your timing may vary). That does not include shopping (getting decently straight lumber at my local hardware store took almost as long as doing all the cuts).

I really liked the concept of the hammock stand from this site, but I found the instructions a little lacking in a few places (missing steps, extra parts, unexplained measurement decisions). I took the concept, made an actual design, and documented here.

Except for attaching the feet, this was pretty much a one-person build, though two people would make much of the cutting go faster.

Bill o’ Materials: $81

0.5in x 10in galvanized carriage bolt  x4 ($16)
0.5in x  6in galvanized carriage bolt  x4 ($11)
0.5in galvanized washers   x8 ($3)
0.5in galvanized nuts      x8 ($3)
8ft 2x4, pressure treated  x8 ($42)
Decking Screws, with bit      ($6)

Tools

Circular saw or chop saw
Power Drill
0.5in paddle bit
Decking screw bit
Tape Measure
Pencil / Pen
Hammer (Do not hammer bolts directly, use scrap as a buffer)
Wrench

Cut Diagram

cuts

Layout / Drill Hole Diagram

diagram

Instructions

  1. Get all of your tools, and prep your space
    20170528_111318
  2. If using a circular saw, be sure to adjust blade height for a 2×4
  3. Measure and make cuts according to the cut diagram above
  4. Once cuts are complete, do a sanity-check layout of the boards, so you can see where each piece goes. In the below photo, the cross-pieces are off to the right of the main stand, the feet and arm spacers are on the left side near the tools. The lumber far right side of the patio is a spare board I had, just in case.
    20170528_122320
  5. Get drilling with the 1/2in paddle bit. Be sure to make sure your drill holes are as straight up and down as you can manage (my drill has a level, which I love). I also recommend drilling into a piece of scrap to help make the far-side of the holes clean.
    20170528_121921

    • Edge holes on the base, arms, and crosspieces should be 3 inches from the edge, centered on the board (1.75 in)
    • Non-edge holes on the arms and the base should be 2ft from an edge hole (for a total of 27in from the edge)
    • Spacers (shown) should have one hole in the center
    • Arm spacers (shown) and feet have no drill holes
  6. Clean the bolt-holes! Many times they’ll be too tight. You can use a file/rasp if you have one, but I just used a bolt to clean the holes a bit (sometimes I had to whack it in/out of the hole using the scrap wood). You should be able to push the bolt in/out of the hole using your hands with a bit of force.
    20170528_123154
  7. Align everything as best you can, in preparation for attaching the bolts.
    20170528_121145
  8. Start placing bolts through the bolt-holes. Long bolts in the base, shorter bolts on the arms. Don’t tighten anything down at this point, you want the whole system to have a bit of wiggle, as all of the little imperfections add up, and you want to be able to get things into place. Pushing the bolt through multiple holes by hand will likely be impossible. Use a hammer, but don’t hammer on the bolt directly (try to preserve the galvanized coating). Be sure to hammer on the scrap wood (or, if it’s easier, just hammer WITH the scrap wood).
    20170528_125519
  9. At this point, the whole thing is going to be a bit wobbly, and the corners of the crosspieces and arms protruding under the base will make it so it won’t stand well. Rest it on its side, and put the washers and nuts on the bolts (again, without getting super tight yet).
    20170528_131018
  10. Prep the feet. For each foot, you’ll want 4 decking screws. Two to the left of center, and two to the right of center. Find the center of the foot (it should be at 2ft), and go 3.5in to the left and right of center. Start the screws there.
    20170528_131639
  11. Get someone to help you flip the whole contraption upside-down. One person should hold it upside-down, while the other screws the feet into the base. Flip it right-side-up again.
  12. Put the arm spacers between the two boards which make up the arm. Attach from both sides using decking screws.
    armspacer.png
  13. Use your wrench to tighten down the bolts. The top bolts on the arms provide a place to attach your hammock. Try not to use other metal hardware, as that will scratch off the rust-protective coating on the bolt over time.
  14. Optional: Prevent the spacers on the base from spinning by using decking screws.
  15. Tie on your favorite hammock, and enjoy!
Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s